This kit is for 93-02 F bodies. I drive my cars a lot and cross country, so I tend to try to use common factory parts whenever possible. Sorry, I am pretty new to everything, especially brakes. Now, this task doesnt seem to difficult if I had 4 wheel drums, but I do not. I used this info and did it with th original master minus the booster Im working on unhooking my battery cables.
Bowl Design: Dual Mounting Hole Quantity: 2 holes Remote Reservoir: No Reservoir Included: Yes Reservoir Material: Plastic Master Cylinder Cap Included: Yes Pushrod Included: Yes Mounting Brackets Included: Yes Hardware Included: Yes Quantity: Sold as a kit. I have disc brakes up front and drums in rear. B33812 lb residual pressure valve…………………. Step by step process of the installation. The stud was a tight fit, then I had it welded for good measure.
Step by step process of the installation. For any questions, please email me at david. If the pedal ratio is increased, there will be more travel at the master cylinder piston. I know for a fact that old cylinder on the 34 was smaller, had the same look, and now I am not sure what it was, but it did have the bigger size resevoir for disc. Posts: 38 Joined: Thu Mar 22, 2007 9:10 pm I have the master cylinder part number for the manual brake S-10, it is a Cardone brand, part number is 10-1905, or go down to O-Reilley Auto parts and pick up one. When the valve is out, the rear brakes feel stronger than usual.
This plate is designed to utilize a Strange Engineering Mopar Dual Master Cylinder. I can't mount that big cow under the car where I need to go. My pedal ratio is around 6-1. At first the idea makes sense. The Vette might have a deeper recess for the rod and not be getting full travel. You will also have to bend your brake lines a bit to attach them to the master cylinder since it moves back a few inches. So now I have to shorten the pushrod as there is less travel needed.
Is it time to replace my master cylinder?? You've come to the right place to get affordable quality Brake Master Cylinders for your Chevy S10. Posts: 38 Joined: Thu Mar 22, 2007 9:10 pm archy355 wrote:thank you i figured the original one should work because what is different about them? When I swapped to rear disc on my car I had a heck of a time getting the rear bleed out. The idea here is coordinate the pedal ratio with the bore size to arrive at approximately half of the stroke roughly 1-inch in order to make the brakes feel comfortable. The angle of the reservoir was not an issue. This goes on and on and on until I get home.
They are required on vehicles where the master is mounted lower than the brakes, like in the floor pan. The brake system is designed to work as a unit. Posts: 38 Joined: Thu Mar 22, 2007 9:10 pm jknobeloch wrote: so i bought a new master for some old corvete that had 4 wheel non power disc brakes and it made my on steel plate to mount it to the fire wall with and moved my push rod to the next hole higher on the peadal. Anyone done this swap and can reccomend a mastercylinder to use. They will create a more consistent pedal feel by putting you in command when braking. I get on the brakes at a stoplight and my brakes lock up. We've worked hard over 11 years designing a website experience that makes it easy for anyone to idenify whether parts fit their car.
I have a Big-Block Chevy hunting a home, might just try this,lol. As far as drilling another hole in the pedal. Your Chevrolet S-10 compact pick-up truck is a first of its kind. The proper welding rod must be used to ensure a strong safe weld. This requires you to drill your brake pedal for the master cylinder pushrod Kit includes all hardware necessary, Strange Engineering Mopar Dual Master Cylinder 1. See product for application and installation details. Well, I built a motor without taking in consideration for the powered brakes that I have currently installed and I am now forced to look at my options.
Even though we have not done this particular swap here at Ask My Car Guys world headquarters, it looks like you will need a with reservoir , a factory pushrod from the junkyard or an adjustable unit , and an adapter plate for the firewall since the brake booster is mounted with four bolts, and the master cylinder alone only uses two. Looks like a press in brass fitting. Notes: Includes Strange master cylinder, firewall adapter block, and mounting hardware. I do not mean to take away from anyone's business selling aftermarket parts. These master cylinders are designed primarily for manual applications and include a pushrod.
The stroke is set at 1. Just make sure the master you use can be fully stroked before the pedal bottoms out! Looks like a press in brass fitting. B336610 lb residual pressure valve………………… B3367Adjustable proportioning valve……………. Used the rear port for the front brakes, and an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear circuit. Today, while cruising, the pedal sank to the floor, so I pulled over.
Could be some kind of insert to seal the flair. I did have to move the master cylinder up on the mounting plate the same amount of distance as the distance between the 2 holes on the brake pedal. This method uses some bits from a Chevrolet S-10 pickup and some good old hot rodding modifications to get the job done. I found this older thread and thought I might ask something on the master cylinder issues. Otherwise your pedal stroke would be exceptionally long. Smaller bores will result in lower pedal efforts but with longer strokes for a given pressure, and just the opposite for larger bores. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.