The fitting is secured with two fasteners spaced so that they require the edges of the existing opening widened. You do not need to remove the console, just get it back far enough to work on the fuse box area. This is an easy installation which does not require any modifications to the existing headlight loom. The hazard switch and indicators often cause problems in defenders, most commonly the indicators stop working, but the fault is actually with the hazard light switch. Making the relay loom is a simple procedure that anyone with a basic degree of electrical knowledge can achieve. This post aims to explain how the hazard switch works, why it's malfunction stops the indicators working, and how to test for and diagnose the fault.
If it turns out to be faulty, then replace the switch and it's job done! When the hazard switch is depressed, the left and right hand indicator lamps, the hazard warning switch itself, and the hazard warning lamp in the instrument pack will all flash. Pull the fuse box panel back and push up on the flasher relay base to release it from the metal support. It saved me £15 for a new switch or over £50 for a Land Rover one! Follow the instructions and you should soon be able to determine if you have a faulty switch. The voltage drop from the under-rated wiring can be more than 1V! I think my high beams are also not activating, but will double check this after work. Current flows across fusible link 5 and fuse 7, which are connected in parallel.
I'm having problems with my flashers. Dull, leaky and if your defender has any age, they will be brittle too. So now I had to check the indicator relay. Super bright light and high efficient;. To remove the console, remove the 6 screws that hold the cubby box tray in place.
Ok so I've changed the Hazard switch for a new one which has reduced the frequency ofthe clicking but not erradicated it entirely which leads me to believe that the switch was on its way out but not the cause. I found a few useful online guides, some of which show the indicator wiring going through the hazard switch: It took longer to unscrew the panel to get to the switch than it did to carry out the test and prove it was the hazard switch. Black red - indicator supply Black - earth Remove the multiplug, you will then see the two sets of pins, x3 and x4, top and bottom as viewed in the photo, not as mounted in the dash. Behind this you can now clean up all the copper contact surfaces. I checked the fuses and it all looks fine, so I guess it is either the relay or the indicator toggle switch. Had a look round which included pulling the flasher unit out.
Place this rocker part aside as this shouldn't need any attention. I assumed this was due to a short cicuit so I pulled my landies wiring loom to pieces and sepreated all the wires but it still happens. The light is cast upwards to the left and slightly downward to the right so as to not blind oncoming traffic. The previous owner towed a trailer trailer break and indicator lights on dash. It does however still leave me with very fast flashing indicators! At first it was'nt working when tested, then when I switched it on and off it started working. Check hazard switch - switch is wired such that if it has malfunctioned the indicator stalk receives no power.
I have read the following article and all works fine. Mark the opening with a sharpie and file the excess out. There are the two side spades for the rocker light which may come loose as you lift the back away. The previous owner towed a trailer trailer break and indicator lights on dash. No signal on dash either. No signal on dash either.
Now you will need your replacement indicator. After my switch failed I decided it was time to add a relay into the wiring system. Let us know if we can help you with any of your Defender needs! You will need a fused piece of wire or test lamp , you don't want to risk a dead short if you get it wrong. If I turn my lights on it reduces the frequency of the clicking but it still does it occasionally. So armed with some basic tools and a multimeter, this is how I went about fixing my indicators! Since yours is on a quick flash all the time, there is a current flowing somewhere, though it's unlikely to be a dead short as that'd pop a fuse. Here are the steps needed to get to it: Remove the fuse panel cover. Slowly and carefully prise up the back of the switch which holds the copper contact pins.
We checked the ground earth but that does not seem to be the problem. I took this photo today, a year and four months after the installation and it still looks brand new. The same happens on the other side. To do so, you must first remove the flasher. The bulb can then be seen after scraping away the cobwebs, dust and spider carcasses at the end of the carrier.